How to exfoliate: What to know about overexfoliating skin

Exfoliators can be a safe, simple way to smooth the skin and even out tone, but it’s all too easy to overdo it.

In this article:

What is exfoliation?

Using a cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen are three¹ basics for skin care recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology.² But many people³ also swear by exfoliating, a simple step that can make a significant impact. Exfoliating is the process of removing the layer of dead skin cells that sit on the surface of the skin.⁴ While exfoliation is best known for the face and body, there are also products⁵ for scalp exfoliation (which aims to help remove buildup at the roots) and even lip exfoliators,⁶ which claim to remove flakes and dead skin.

What are the benefits of exfoliating?

Exfoliating can help fade dark spots, unclog pores and brighten skin, explains Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City. Removing the dead skin can also help to increase the absorption of other topical products applied to skin, including moisturizers and serums.

Is too much exfoliation bad for the skin?

More is definitely not better when it comes to exfoliation; in fact, overexfoliating can end up leaving the skin dry and irritated.⁷ Keep reading to learn how to exfoliate correctly, plus what to do when accidentally overexfoliating.

The two types of exfoliation

Physical exfoliation

Not all exfoliation is created equal. “Physical exfoliation⁸ manually removes dead skin cells with something like a washcloth or loofah, or a scrub,” says Geeta Yadav, MD, a dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology in Toronto, Ontario. This actually buffs off the dead cells. Physical exfoliants, such as face scrubs, rely on any number of ingredients to do exactly that; for example, the Differin daily brightening exfoliator for face uses jojoba beads that dissolve in water, while Cetaphil extra-gentle facial scrub uses micro-fine particles. For a body exfoliator, consider Differin acne-clearing body scrub with 2% salicylic acid (SA), which uses exfoliating beads made of vitamin E (which also dissolve in water) or Dove exfoliating body scrub. Another option is exfoliating gloves, which can be used in the shower to buff skin from head to toe.

Chemical exfoliation

Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, use ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids (which include glycolic acid and lactic acid),⁹ beta hydroxy acids or polyhydroxy acids to help dissolve the bonds securing the dead cells to the surface of the skin in order to remove them, Dr. Yadav explains.

These are typically found in cleansers, leave-on treatments, peel pads or toners, like CeraVe skin-renewing glycolic nightly exfoliating treatment. They’re also found in bodywashes, such as CeraVe bodywash with salicylic acid and Neutrogena Body Clear bodywash.

How often should someone exfoliate their face?

According to dermatologists, it’s hard to pinpoint a universal guideline for how often a person should be exfoliating. “It depends on both your skin type and the aggressiveness of your exfoliation method,” says Dr. Gmyrek. People with more sensitive skin may need to exfoliate less often than, say, those with oily skin.¹⁰

But, in general, once someone finds the best exfoliator to address their concerns, it’s a good idea to start using it once per week, gradually increasing to two to three times per week, she says. Follow the directions on the particular product and pay close attention to how the skin responds.

Signs of overexfoliation

“Overexfoliating is very common. If some is good, then more must be better, right? No!” says Dr. Gmyrek. In fact, too much exfoliating can strip the skin of its natural oils and lead to excessive dryness, which can — ironically — trigger the overproduction of oil and lead to breakouts, she notes. “Overexfoliating damages the skin barrier, which helps keep the skin balanced, nourished and protected from environmental factors,” agrees Dr. Yadav.

Dry skin, flaking and redness, as well as breakouts,¹¹ can indicate that they’ve gone too far. And if they’ve really done a number on their skin, they may notice a burning or stinging sensation when they apply any product.¹² “This means that there are breaks in the skin and the barrier is compromised,” Dr. Gmyrek says.

What to do if overexfoliation happens

If any of the symptoms mentioned above happen, immediately stop exfoliating, advises Dr. Gmyrek. That also means double-checking to make sure that none of the other skin care products contain exfoliating ingredients, such as retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, which are often found in acne-fighting products.

A person can streamline their routine and use only a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser (sulfates are common cleansing ingredients but can dry out the skin¹³) and a simple moisturizer that contains ingredients such as soothing colloidal oatmeal¹⁴ and ceramides to help heal the skin barrier¹⁵, she suggests.

Exactly how long to give the skin a break depends on how aggressively they’ve overexfoliated, but consider waiting at least a week, Dr. Yadav advises. When they do start back up, they should ease their way in by exfoliating only once per week, gradually increasing the frequency if their skin can tolerate it.

Those who are going gently back into an exfoliating skin routine can also keep an eye out for products suited to the task. One option to consider: CeraVe SA cream for rough & bumpy skin, which pairs salicylic acid with ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, which help repair the skin barrier.¹⁶

This content is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Consult your health care provider before taking any vitamins or supplements, and prior to beginning or changing any health care practices.