Benefits of retinol and retinoids in a skin care regimen

This beginner’s guide to retinoids explains how they can help firm up skin and clear up breakouts.

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If someone were to ask dermatologists to share a beneficial skin care ingredient, there’s a good chance they would say some kind of retinoid —a family of vitamin A-based topical products.¹ One of these retinoids, retinol, can appear in products in the skin care aisle.² But some people remain concerned about the reputation of retinol for causing irritation. Here, health care professionals help demystify retinoids so you can decide if you want to incorporate them into your skin care regimen.

What are retinoids?

Retinoids are a class of molecules that include retinol and various close cousins in structure. They can be either natural or synthetic in origin.³ In terms of skin care, retinoids can help regulate skin cell turnover — the pace at which skin sheds dead cells — and in doing so, helps to even out skin tone, improve hyperpigmentation and smooth texture, according to Macrene Alexiades, MD, a dermatologist in New York City and associate clinical professor at Yale University School of Medicine.⁴

Topical retinoids include both over-the-counter and prescription versions; while they all offer similar benefits, they can differ in strength. “Retinoic acid is the active compound,” says Dr. Alexiades. A prescription-only retinoid called tretinoin contains retinoic acid and is therefore active right out of the tube. Several years ago, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration approved one former prescription-strength retinoid, Differin Gel 0.1% (adapalene), to be sold over the counter.⁵

Benzoyl peroxide or alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) such as citric or lactic acid can irritate the skin.⁶ So keep an eye out on ingredient labels.

What are the benefits of retinoids?

As we age, the production of collagen — the protein that gives our skin structure — slows down, causing fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Collagen is also damaged by exposure to UVA and UVB radiation.⁷

So, retinoids to the rescue! By stimulating new collagen production and encouraging cellular turnover, retinoids help the skin shed dead cells that cause dullness and rough texture.⁸ This same process helps reduce acne.⁹

Are there risks with retinoids?

There can be side effects from retinoids, including redness, itching or scaling of the skin. If a person notices these or any other symptoms from a topical skin product, they should discontinue use immediately and contact their health care provider.

It’s important to note that pregnant people are discouraged from using topical retinoids. There is a risk that they may affect the pregnancy.^10,11

How do retinoids work?

It’s recommended to consult a dermatologist before giving retinoids a try. Before starting a retinoid regimen, a person should consider their skin concerns, goals and history. If they’re dealing with breakouts or want smoother, brighter skin and a more even tone, they may be a good candidate — so long as their skin is fairly resilient.¹² “Those with sensitive skin, dry skin, red or rosy skin, or who have a tendency to flush are probably not good candidates for retinol,” says Dr. Alexiades.

Retinoids vs. retinol

Retinoids are the overarching category in which retinol is a member. Prescription-strength topical retinoids are much, much stronger than retinol¹³ — and that strength can be irritating to the skin. Almost all over-the-counter retinol creams (with the exception of Differin) are less potent and thus are gentler and a great place to start if someone is interested in the potential benefits.

What does retinol do for skin?

Like retinoids, retinol can help thicken the skin and promote collagen production, which can help contribute to an overall more youthful appearance. But remember, retinol is not as strong as a prescription-strength retinoid. That means using the over-the-counter products may not yield results that are as dramatic as those of a prescription.¹⁴ That said, a recent study comparing a retinol serum and a topical retinoid showed that subjects using the serum saw improvement in both dryness and visual skin smoothness in comparison to their topical retinoid counterparts.¹⁵

Is retinol right for a skin care regimen?

Dr. Zeichner acknowledges that retinol may be harsh or irritating, especially for the first month of use, in part because people tend to apply too much or too often. “More is not better,” he warns. “I recommend using only a pea-sized amount for the full face.” They should also take their skin type into consideration. If their complexion is prone to dryness, they should look for retinol creams, which will deliver more nourishment; those with oilier or combination skin types may want to seek out a retinol serum that won’t sit heavy on the skin’s surface or congest pores. Retinol is also not safe to use during pregnancy, so consult your health care provider before trying any new products.¹⁶ Last, it is important to follow the labeled directions when using any product.

When someone adds a new product to their routine, they should start slow, applying every other night or even once every three nights when they begin their retinol usage. This will help skin acclimate to the new regimen. They’ll also want to protect their skin after incorporating retinol into their routine. Retinoids can make skin more susceptible to sun damage¹⁷— the reason many begin using the ingredient in the first place. Use a formula with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 like La Roche-Posay Anthelios ultra-light tinted mineral sunscreen SPF 50.

Hydration, courtesy of a good moisturizer, will help stave off irritation too. If someone is really concerned about sensitivity, they can try the sandwich technique.¹⁸ It means putting the retinoid on between two layers of moisturizer. Max out moisture by using a moisturizer like Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair retinol night cream; the hyaluronic acid pulls water into the skin.

Retinol creams

When shopping for retinol creams, consider both the packaging claims and the formulation itself. For example, if a person tends to overzealously apply skin care products (which shouldn’t be done with retinol products), look for retinol creams in pump packaging so they can easily dispense a small amount.

It's worth noting that some of the best retinol cream options contain gradual-release technology courtesy of encapsulated retinol, which means that the active ingredient is enclosed in tiny polymer shells that slowly dissolve and absorb into the skin, rather than absorbing all at once, which could sensitize the skin. This will get similar benefits as a regular retinol but may have less irritation. CeraVe resurfacing retinol face serum features both encapsulated retinol and pump packaging for a smooth and comfortable experience.

Retinol serum

Someone can also rev up their skin care regimen with a retinol serum rather than a cream. Some products use the gradual-release technology mentioned above for slow and effective absorption of retinol. It can also feature glycerin, a skin hydrator,¹⁹ and vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide. Niacinamide is an ingredient that offers a host of benefits, including having antioxidant effects, helping to improve skin barrier function, reduce redness and dark spots, and even decrease fine lines and wrinkles.²⁰ Just don’t forget to wear sunscreen!

This content is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Consult your health care provider before taking any vitamins or supplements, and prior to beginning or changing any health care practices.