The importance of the skin barrier and how to protect it
In charge of keeping moisture in and irritants out, the body’s skin barrier works hard — but quietly — to help keep the complexion looking healthy.
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Skin redness, skin dryness and a tight, uncomfortable sensation — if any of these sound familiar, there might just be something amiss with a person’s skin barrier. Though that may sound serious, it may just mean that they have some damage that they can help address with tender, loving care at home, as long as they have the right strategies and products.
We asked skin care experts to explain how the layers of the skin barrier work together as well as the right repair approaches to help keep all of them thriving.
What is the skin barrier?
The skin barrier, technically known as the stratum corneum, is the very top layer of skin. “It’s designed to protect the skin from external damage but also to protect the skin from water loss, also known as transepidermal water loss or TEWL,” explains Julie Russak, MD, a dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
TEWL (in which water literally evaporates through the skin) can make skin more susceptible to environmental stressors, such as pollution and allergens.1 “This can create an inflammatory reaction in the skin, making it look red and feel irritated and age it faster,” she adds.
The skin barrier consists of three layers: the microbiome, acid mantle and lipid barrier, says Dr. Russak. If any individual layer is disrupted, they’re all consequently affected.
The microbiome
Think of the microbiome as an enormous city on the surface of the skin. “The microbiome is inhabited by a wide array of microorganisms, like bacteria and fungi, which combat any harmful bacteria that may find its way onto the skin,” explains Geeta Yadav, MD, a dermatologist and a lecturer in the division of dermatology at the University of Toronto. In other words, skin is covered in bacteria that are actually helpful, helping skin stay balanced.
The acid mantle
Below the microbiome is the acid mantle, which is a layer composed of lipids and amino acids from sweat, says Dr. Russak.2 The acid mantle keeps skin at a naturally low, or acidic, pH — an environment in which skin thrives. On the other hand, “when the pH of the skin is disrupted, it allows for irritation and inflammation,” she says.
To help balance that perfect pH level, pay extra attention to the cleansing and toning steps of someone’s routine. “Using a mild, milky or oil-based cleanser can prevent stripping away your skin’s natural oils, which will throw your acid mantle off balance,” says Dr. Yadav. Toners, which tend to contain acids, can also help restore that lower pH, she says. Try Vichy Pureté Thermalé three-in-one one-step face wash and makeup remover.
The lipid barrier
Think of the lipid barrier as a wall made of brick and mortar. According to Dr. Russak, the lipids, which are fatty compounds,3 act like the mortar between the bricks, which are the skin cells. Together, they create a tight seal. On the other hand, “when that mortar is disrupted, there is an increase in TEWL and an increase in allergens from the outside getting into the skin,” she says.
To help maintain a healthy lipid barrier, Dr. Yadav recommends seeking out a skin barrier cream with hyaluronic acid, essential fatty acids and ceramides. “Hyaluronic acid helps draw water into the skin, while essential fatty acids and ceramides help nourish by providing hydration and sealing moisture into skin.”
Both hyaluronic acid and ceramides are in the Vanicream daily facial moisturizer. If skin leans more oily, consider the La Roche-Posay Toleriane double repair matte moisturizer, a lightweight barrier repair cream that pairs ceramides with oil-absorbing powders. Meanwhile, for people with sensitive skin, consider using Cetaphil Deep Hydration healthy glow daily cream; this skin barrier repair cream features a soothing blend of hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
How do I know if my skin barrier is damaged?
If someone notices the hallmarks of a weakened skin barrier — redness, dullness and flaking4 — their regular skin care routine may need a reboot to help recover a healthy skin barrier.
How to help repair a damaged skin barrier
In addition to incorporating the skin barrier repair products mentioned above, a person can also make strategic tweaks to their routine. For instance, hot water strips away the skin’s natural oils, so keep baths and showers warm.5 Add moisture to the air with a humidifier, especially in the colder months, because dry air can sap moisture from skin.6 Laundry detergent could also be a factor, so try something fragrance-free or hypoallergenic.7
How long does skin barrier repair take?
While it largely depends on each person’s situation, expect to do the skin barrier repair routine for a few weeks before seeing (and feeling) an improvement. “It can take at least two weeks to start to see improvements but up to four weeks for a full recovery,” says Dr. Russak. “Obviously, it depends on how injured the skin barrier is.”
How will someone know if it’s working? Not only will their skin feel more comfortable, but it may even look better, too. “If your skin barrier is healthy, your skin will look clear and radiant,” says Dr. Yadav.
This content is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Consult your health care provider before taking any vitamins or supplements and prior to beginning or changing any health care practices.
