How to build a skin care routine
What’s a must-have and what’s a nice-to-have when it comes to tender, loving care for skin? Three doctors help guide someone to a choice that may fit their unique needs.
With so many skin care products available, it’s hard to know which ones a person may need for their particular skin. For guidance, we assembled a panel of three doctors and asked about the skin care products they feel are useful and which are only nice-to-haves.
The decision is up to each person, of course, depending on their skin goals, preferences and budget — not to mention their individual health needs and restrictions. (As always, consult your health care provider with any questions or concerns.) We consulted three dermatologists: Michele Farber, MD, in Philadelphia; Hadley King, MD, in New York City; and Joshua Zeichner, MD, in New York City.
In this article:
Six products to support healthier-looking skin1
While a typical skin care routine includes a cleanser, moisturizer and a sun-protection factor (SPF) lotion, other products, such as exfoliators, eye creams or serums, may be added depending on an individual’s goals or needs.
Cleansers
Use a cleanser daily to wash away makeup, oil and debris. Products with hyaluronic acid can be good for dryness, while those with salicylic acid can be good for acne.
Moisturizers
Moisturizers are key to hydrated skin. A person should pick one that works for their skin type, such as lotion for oily skin, a thicker cream formulation for dry skin or a fragrance-free product for sensitive skin.
Sunscreens
Applying sunscreen every day (even multiple times per day) is also crucial because it can help protect skin from cancer-causing ultraviolet (UV) radiation and premature aging.
Exfoliants
While less vital, using an exfoliant after cleansing can help get rid of dead skin and lessen dark spots. However, overexfoliation can result in dry skin, so exfoliants should only be used as tolerated.
Eye creams
If someone wants to firm and smooth the skin around their eyes, a cream with retinoids might be worth trying. Products with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which provide moisture, can also help.
Serums
Serums can be used for a more targeted treatment. Those with vitamin C and retinoids are particularly good at helping to protect and regenerate skin.
How to choose a face cleanser
For this panel, it’s unanimous: If someone can use one product, a face cleanser should be the staple of a good skin care routine. “It’s important to wash makeup, sunscreen, oil and debris off of the skin every day,” says Dr. Farber. “A hydrating cleanser with active ingredients, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid, is best for dry or sensitive skin, while foaming cleansers — or ones with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide — are helpful for acneic skin.”
If someone is prone to dryness, they should try a gentle cleanser, such as La Roche-Posay Toleriane hydrating gentle face cleanser, which contains the aforementioned ceramides, or consider a daily facial cleanser to help minimize the appearance of pores. An oil cleanser can also help nourish dry skin. Those susceptible to breakouts, on the other hand, may benefit from an acne cleanser for oily skin with salicylic acid, which is a chemical exfoliant that can help clear clogged pores.
If someone uses makeup, Dr. Farber also suggests bolstering their nighttime routine by adding in a micellar water to do a first sweep at removing the makeup from their skin. (Micellar water uses micelles, which are tiny clusters of molecules that gently lift away grime, debris and makeup — even waterproof formulas.)2
How to choose a moisturizer
Our panel of dermatologists agreed that a daily moisturizer is a must-have for most people’s daily routines. And the reason is straightforward: “It’s important to hydrate the skin, support the skin barrier and lock in moisture,” explains Dr. King.
The type of moisturizer chosen should be tailored to an individual’s skin type. “Choosing a lotion for oily skin is ideal, while thicker cream formulations are good for dry skin,” says Dr. Farber. And if skin is on the sensitive spectrum, she recommends opting for a fragrance-free formula to potentially avoid any irritation.3
La Roche-Posay Toleriane double repair matte face moisturizer has a mattifying effect to potentially reduce shine, making it ideal for oily types. For those prone to breakouts, consider a moisturizer that is noncomedogenic (meaning it typically won’t clog pores) and infused with salicylic acid, which may help to unblock pores.
How to choose a sunscreen
This won’t come as a surprise, but it bears repeating: “UV radiation is the number one factor contributing to skin cancer risk4 and premature aging of the skin,5 and much of the UV radiation we are subjected to is from daily incidental exposure,” says Dr. King. “So, practicing sun-smart behaviors — including applying sunscreen — is important on an everyday basis.” Clearly, it’s one of those skin care routine steps that shouldn’t be skipped before going outside.
It helps to have a formula someone enjoys wearing, and one that’s designed for their skin type. Those prone to oily skin, for instance, might want to try Cetaphil daily oil-free facial moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 35 sunscreen, because it’s oil free, while others dealing with dryness may prefer a moisturizer with sunscreen that contains ceramides.
How to choose an exfoliant
Exfoliants can be used after a good cleansing, which is why facial exfoliants fall in the helpful bucket, according to our panel. “It’s good to exfoliate to get rid of excess debris on the skin,” says Dr. Farber. That said, she notes that exfoliation can lead to dry skin if used in combination with additional exfoliating ingredients, such as retinoids.
Another option is a leave-on exfoliating treatment for a nighttime skin care routine, which contains a blend of chemical exfoliants that gently dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together.6 For dealing with dark spots and uneven skin tone, consider a dark spot corrector.7
Dr. King agrees that while gentle exfoliation is important in a skin care routine, it can also be achieved with a warm, wet washcloth — so a specific exfoliating product isn’t always necessary.
How to choose a daily eye cream
Eye creams are specifically formulated for the delicate area of skin around the eyes, says Dr. King. However, she also notes that a facial moisturizer can absolutely do double duty as eye cream.
“The only time you really should be using a specialized eye cream is when you are trying to target a particular issue with a specific active ingredient,” adds Dr. Zeichner. One such ingredient? Retinoids, which can help smooth and firm skin around the eye area (and which, Dr. Farber notes, should only be used at night).8
Also beneficial for the eye area are ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which may provide moisture. Another option is to choose an eye cream for sensitive skin.
How to choose a serum
For a more targeted treatment, consider trying a face serum. “Serums are your workhorses,” says Dr. Zeichner. “They get a specific job done, depending on what type of product you are using and what your skin needs are.”
Dr. Farber is partial to two essential active ingredients when it comes to nailing down a routine: vitamin C, which is an antioxidant, and retinoids. “Antioxidant serums help protect in the morning, and retinoids may help regenerate skin overnight,” she says. Another good bet is hyaluronic acid, which may help hydrate skin.
In some face serums, hyaluronic acid is paired with ceramides. The hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin, while the ceramides fortify the skin’s protective barrier to better retain it. Meanwhile, La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 face serum uses hyaluronic acid to help plump skin and smooth fine lines.
This content is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Consult your health care provider before taking any vitamins or supplements, and prior to beginning or changing any health care practices.